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Magnificent objects and wonderous watches

  • March 27, 2022

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MAGNIFICENT objects inspired by the city of Geneva, the headquarters of luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe, will be shown at their offices from April 6 to 23. Meanwhile, a presentation of their 2022 novelties will commence at the Watches and Wonders show in Geneva on March 30.

Each year, the manufacture unveils a new collection of one-of-a-kind pieces and limited editions that focus the spotlight on the talents of Genevan watchmakers. The 2022 collection consists of a total of 59 creations including 15 dome table clocks, nine miniature dome table clocks, 10 pocket watches, and 25 wristwatches. These pieces will exhibit techniques such as grand feu cloisonné enamel, miniature painting on enamel (a genuine Genevan specialty), manual engraving, manual guilloching and paillonné enamel, wood micromarquetry and Longwy enamel on faience.

Two of the objects in question are the 20118M Bol d’Or, a dome table clock in cloisonné and paillonné enamel.

This unique piece was inspired by the world-famous Bol d’Or (Golden Globe) regatta, which Philippe Stern, honorary president of Patek Philippe, won seven times with his boats, each christened Altaïr.

The dates of these victories are inscribed in miniature painting on enamel, while the course of the race is charted in gold wire on the dome. The enameller used 13.8m of 24K yellow-gold wire (weighing 27.6 g) measuring 0.2 × 0.6 mm in cross-section and 64 colors and blends of translucent, opaque, semi-opaque and opalescent enamels and miniature painting on enamel. Embedded gold leaf illuminates the buoy and 13 star-shaped spangles called paillons, also in gold leaf, light up the dome. Each enameled plate required eight to 10 firings at 820°C. An hour circle in ebony, set with 12 gilt applied hour markers in the shape of mooring posts, frames a dial center in cloisonné enamel. A handcrafted cable motif resembling cordage adorns the borders of the hour circle and the clock frame. This piece is powered by the caliber 17’ PEND mechanical movement rewound by an electric motor.

Another object of interest is the 995/130G-001 Swan, a pocket watch with a caseback in wood marquetry and an enameled dial with hand-engraved watch hands.

This piece was inspired by the vision of a swan gliding across Lake Geneva. The piece is made of white gold and wood. The marquetry-maker cut out and assembled 223 pieces of veneer and 30 tiny inlays, shaped from 23 species of wood of different colors, textures and veining to reproduce a swan’s plumage and long neck, as well as the play of reflections in the water.

The dial, in black enamel, presents white-gold applied Breguet numerals and white-gold leaf-shaped hour, minute, and seconds hands, embellished with hand-engraving. A spessartine cabochon (a kind of garnet) measuring 0.44 carats adorns the crown.

This pocket watch is accompanied by a white-gold handcrafted stand resting on a foot set with a spessartine cabochon weighing 0.46 carats on an oval-shaped base in silver-sheen obsidian. It houses the caliber 17’ LEP PS, a manually wound movement with small seconds.

The Rare Handcrafts 2022 exhibition at the Patek Philippe Salons on Rue du Rhône 41 is open to the public every day except Sundays from April 6 to 23, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Meanwhile, the company is set to join more than 30 brands exhibiting for the Watches and Wonders exhibit, returning after its last show in 2019, before the pandemic. —  JLG

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